Shaka Vanuatu 2006

And so it ends...

2006-07-05T18:05:00.000+10:00

It's a strange feeling returning to Port Vila. So much has happened that our six weeks in Vanuatu feels like six months – yet at the same time we feel we've just started, that we could go out again tomorrow.

We've had so much fun, so many adventures that it seems time has been stretched to fit it all in.

Vanuatu is a special place – remote, exotic, beautiful and exciting. There is no doubt the fishing is up there with the best in the world, with a fantastic variety of fighting fish and some of the most majestic scenery in which to seek them. But it is also much more.

It is a land of adventure. Once away from towns like Port Vila and Luganville, there is a constant edge of anticipation of the unknown. This is not day trip fishing, not some well charted ground where the captains and guides know all there is to know and all there ever will be to know. This is wild, this is uncharted, even dangerous for the unprepared and inexperienced.

There is a feeling that you are part of something from another, earlier age when hunters went on safari. Given a boat like Shaka, Ernest Hemingway would have fished the wilds of Vanuatu.

So if you want your fishing mixed with adventure, this is the place.

More marlin

2006-07-02T00:01:00.000+10:00

The fine weather continues with the wind at a comfortable 5-15kts and the fishing is great. We were 2-1-1 for the day, with Jonathon being the lucky angler.

Two other tags were recorded nearby, along with a couple of 60-80kg yellowfin.

Better lucky than smart

2006-07-01T17:00:00.000+10:00

With fishing, as with many things in life, it’s better to be lucky than smart. And where fishing luck is concerned, my youngest son Matthew takes some beating.

This is a kid who caught his 1st Australian Bass on his first cast after a five minute lesson, caught his 1st Saratoga on his first hookup and tagged a Black Marlin in Cairns on his 1st trip.

A passport screw up meant that Matthew arrived three days late and gave his brother Jonathon and friend Richard Hopkins a head start that they were unable to use to advantage. Knowing Matthew, I was surprised he didn’t pick up a marlin in his first hour on rotation. Maybe he was tired from the midnight flight from Australia. But it didn’t take him long to recover.

About ten minutes into his second hour he hooked up and brought it in with ease.

Luck is contagious

2006-07-01T16:00:00.000+10:00

It would seem Matthew brought luck to share around. Within the two hours after we had released his fish, Richard Hopkins and Jonathon landed two beauties bringing us to 5-3-3 for the day.

These are the 1st blue marlin for the boys. In the tradition of the Great Barrier Reef, we will be throwing them in for a swim tonight. It will be a very wet but very happy boat.

And just to round it off

2006-07-01T13:30:00.000+10:00

After the initial flurry of activity, the bite seemed to go off and we were thinking about heading back for some serious celebrations. Suddenly, a wahoo launched itself 20ft straight up into the air about 80m from the boat. Captain Jared turned Shaka sharply and we trolled over the location, looking for something big enough to scare a wahoo.

Within seconds we found it and Richard was hooked up for the second time today. Not only that, it was a Black Marlin and it jumped all over the ocean and all the way to the boat. This gave Richard his 1st blue and his 1st black on the same day, which must be some kind of record.

Better weather

2006-06-30T19:18:00.000+10:00

Our run of bad weather has finally ended, with the trade winds backing off to a comfortable 15-20kts. We have also begun to find more bait schools and associated tuna activity. This school covered several acres and was fiercely attacked by thousands of skipjack tuna.

We saw three blue marlin and had one hookup but no tags. Tomorrow is another day…

Last day

2006-06-26T19:05:00.000+10:00

What you want on every charter is to catch the big one the first morning. What you don’t want is to wake up on the last day with the wind still at 25-30kts and no marlin. So we started early and fished hard and our luck changed.

Approaching mid-afternoon Geoff hooked up, but alas, the big blue jumped the hook. With the clock ticking, we fished on.

Then just off Hat Island, Kim hooked up.

As if to repay our patience, the blue jumped all over the ocean and gave Kim the fight of her life. It was her 1st marlin and she did a great job.

Congratulations Kim – you’re very lucky to have a husband who shares the thrills (even when you show him up every now and then).

We'll try anything

2006-06-24T18:17:00.000+10:00

The trade winds continue at 25-30kts and fishing is tough. So when you get in for the night, it’s time for some relaxation. Geoff had brought some fishing kites with him from the US and was keen to show the boys a thing or two.

The tower made a great launch pad and the kite was soon high in the sky, trolling some fresh bait.

We got a few bites but we don’t think it will take on in Cairns…

Geoff & Kim

2006-06-23T18:09:00.000+10:00

Geoff & Kim met shooting pistols, raced Formula 5 cars on the same team and now fish together with just a hint of competition. Well, maybe more than just a hint.

With weather conditions still tough, the marlin were scarce. However, there’s always something on. Geoff picked up some good wahoo while Kim, thinking ahead to dinner, landed a nice mahi mahi.

Tough conditions

2006-06-22T17:25:00.000+10:00

Geoff & Kim Shepard joined us for what was to be our toughest charter yet. Even in early morning Port Vila the wind was brisk, a prelude to what lay ahead.

Geoff is in the marina business back in the US and was extremely interested in Port Vila’s facilities. He sees a big opportunity…

We fished the FAD off Mele Bay first up in 25-30kts and then trolled downsea up the Marlin Highway to Port Havannah without success, although we had reports of a couple of tags in the vicinity.

A good decision

2006-06-19T19:09:00.000+10:00

We waved our charter goodbye from Lamen Bay on Epi Island and weighed up our options. The calm and beauty of Lamen Bay was attractive after a few days of the rough stuff, but with the sun shining and the Marlin Highway beckoning we chose to push on to Port Vila. A 25 – 30kt breeze on the nose for the 60nm passage to Efate Island caused us periodically to question our decision.

We were rewarded with very fishy looking water once we reached the relative calm off west Efate and we had the lures in the water no more than ten minutes when our efforts were rewarded and our decision vindicated. A nice blue marlin in the 250-300lb range hit the right rigger and battle was joined. He fought well and jumped at the boat but was quickly tagged and released. With only crew on board, the angler takes the photographs and skillful handling by our no 1 deckie, Pete Roots, allowed me to get some good closeups.

Grinner comes good

2006-06-18T20:46:00.000+10:00

Friendly rivalry is part and parcel of fishing and so it was on this trip. The title for Champion Angler was out of reach, with George Rehua’s two billfish effectively unbeatable on the last day. Mick Keeling and Simon Deane were happy with one each, but Craig ‘Grinner’ Newton was yet to score.

Grinner is a serious fisherman, one of Queensland’s professional shark catching contractors, with his own boat and charter business. He is an experienced campaigner when it comes to competition fishing. With the titles for Most Fish and Most Wahoo safely under his belt, he switched tactics to target the prestigious title for Best Variety.

Directing Captain Jared to likely spots, Grinner showed his skills in a devastating display of angling ability. His first capture for the day was this solid Coral Trout, followed in short order by a nice Dogtooth Tuna.

Well done Grinner!

Sails Ahoy

2006-06-16T15:27:00.000+10:00

With a strong wind warning current, the trip south to Vila along the Marlin Highway was deferred and light tackle fishing was proclaimed the order of the day. Sheltered at night from the 25 – 30kt south easterly in a calm anchorage behind Aore Island, we were able to hunt sailfish by day in the protected waters north of Aore, Abokisa and Tutuba Islands. These waters teem with the gar that sailfish love and we saw plenty of action.

This is one of the great strengths of Vanuatu – the variety of fishing available and the diversity of location mean that great sport is almost always at hand.

Today Simon Deane was first on, followed rapidly by Mick Keeling with this beauty

Marlin at last

2006-06-14T13:20:00.000+10:00

Our second visit to Wusi Reef was a virtual re-run of our first – lots of activity, lots of Wahoo caught but no billfish hookups. We saw one blue marlin and two sails trailed the right rigger for a minute or so before deciding they weren’t hungry.

Next day we turned south towards Malakula Island into 25-30kts and the biggest seas we’ve had so far. This is where it pays to have a great sea boat.

We were headed for the spot where we had dropped a big one the week before when just off the south west corner of Santo we hooked up to a marlin. George Rehua was the lucky angler and although it was only a small fish at a shade under 200lb it was a welcome sight at the side of the boat. Unfortunately, it was the only one we saw that day.

Action on the High Seas

2006-06-07T08:24:00.001+10:00

Things break on boats. You expect it and you hope you will be prepared. Minutes into our next leg towards the Torres Islands, disaster struck. An oil line on the port engine broke. And of course, the port engine on Shaka drives the hydraulic steering.

So there we were, 110nm across open ocean from home base at Luganville, with one engine and no hydraulic steering. With a charter looming, we had no choice but to set out. And as is often the case, one disaster leads to another. Conditions were rough heading into the prevailing trade winds and 20nm short of Luganville the steering mechanism broke leaving us drifting towards the reef 2nm away.

When things get tough, the tough get going and Captain Jared proved his seamanship that day. He blocked off the oil return line, replaced the oil and restarted the port engine. On low revs it gave us steering and we were on our way.

As he says, "It's 10% about the fishing and 90% about the boat."

We visit the Banks Islands

2006-06-05T13:10:00.000+10:00

With seven days free before the next charter, we decided to combine fishing with some sight seeing and visit the remote Banks and Torres Islands. Lying about 100nm north of Luganville, the Banks Islands are visited by only intrepid travelers, traveling yachts and the (very) occasional game boat. They are noted for their spectacular light tackle fishing, although of course we hoped to find some stray blue marlin.

Our point of departure across open ocean was Champagne Beach, reputedly the most beautiful white sand beach in Vanuatu. It is a regular stop for cruise ships and has a pier for the lighters and market stalls where the locals sell their wares. Fortunately, when we visited it was deserted, pristine and just as beautiful as in the brochure.

We crossed to Gaua Island, the southernmost of the Banks Group and trolled lures north towards our anchorage at Waterfall Bay more in hope than expectation of a bite. Which just goes to prove that you never can tell…Just off the south west tip of Vanua Lava we hooked up to a nice blue and for a few minutes delighted in the prospect of our second marlin for the trip. But as the saying goes, “Sometimes the marlin wins”. At least we know they’re there.

Waterfall Bay is one of Vanuatu’s most spectacular sights – twin cascades falling into a pool right on the beach. We were invited by the local chief to visit the village, where he has established the Waterfall Bay Yacht Club – possibly the only byo yacht club in the world.

Wusi Reef

2006-06-04T22:55:00.000+10:00

Wusi Reef is about 5nm off the west coast of Santo, about a 50nm run from Luganville. We would normally have anchored at Wusi itself, but we had heard reports of a problem last year with some local youths allegedly stoning a game boat because they had not been allowed to come aboard.

We took the safe option and anchored at Tasariki, 18nm south, where the locals were extremely friendly, especially when we promised to bring our catch back the next evening.

Wusi Reef is one of Charlie’s favourite places and we soon discovered why. The place literally teemed with bird and fish life – tuna, pilot whales and rainbow runners. We picked up a bunch of tuna and runners to use switch baiting and then were into the serious fishing. Again, Wahoo predominated but we landed plenty of striped and yellowfin tuna as well.

We saw two blue marlin, one on switch bait but were again unsuccessful.

Highlight was a good fight with a small dog tooth tuna, our first for the trip.

The locals arrived in force on our return to Tasariki and were rewarded with a bounty of fish.

Sabine Shoal

2006-06-03T23:04:00.000+10:00

High on our list of priorities was a visit to remote Sabine Shoal, rising out of 2000m to a depth of 2.3m. Sabine is a 70nm run from Luganville across open ocean and consequently is largely unexplored territory for the local game fishing boats. Conditions on the day of our trip were 20-25kts south east, but Shaka’s range and sea going ability meant that we could do the trip in comfort and safety. We ran out at a shade under 30kts with a plan to fish all day and, given the conditions, go on towards Wusi Reef off the west coast of Santo for the night.

It was obvious from some distance off that this was going to be the long awaited “fish city” we had hoped for. Birds were everywhere and tuna chopped up the bait schools all around. We were rigged for big blue marlin, but it was not long before we were into the Wahoo. We estimated about 30 strikes for the day and had we elected to troll hard bodied swimming lures we could have filled the boat. As it was, we boated seven up to about 25kg plus yellowfin and GT and elected to drive away from the voracious Wahoo to conserve our lure skirts.

Towards late afternoon we had some fun chasing them on switch bait. They literally launched themselves out of the water at the lures and we picked up two on 10kg spinning gear. Great sport!

From the blue marlin point of view our trip was unproductive, however we sure know where the Wahoo live. Maybe we will see the marlin next time.

A land of contrasts

2006-06-02T07:23:00.000+10:00

Vanuatu is a land of contrasting scenery, from the majestic to the tranquil. We fished off Lopevi Island, beneath an active volcano. Charlie’s home village is on nearby Paama, where they get a shower of ash 30cm thick from Lopevi about once a year. We wondered whether Charlie was watching the lures or Lopevi…

And yet, because Vanuatu is a land of islands it is usually possible to slip out of the path of the prevailing winds and into a quiet anchorage. We ended our first charter anchored off beautiful Aore Island, across the channel from Luganville on the main island of Santo.

From the chef

2006-06-01T10:16:00.000+10:00

Based on Captain Jared’s local knowledge of Vanuatu, we set the bar pretty high with respect to our charter menu. Jared had praised the local beef highly, followed closely by the chicken and pork. However, the chef always worries about his suppliers and until I had seen it for myself I reserved judgment. I need not have been concerned. The local beef, especially that from the Island of Santo, is as good as you would get anywhere in the world (and having seen the conditions under which cattle are raised, I can understand why). The quality of the veal ensures that Saltimbocca alla Romana will be permanently on our menu here.

Don’t bother asking for free range chickens, that’s how they’re all raised. And the local ham and pork are from very well fed pigs.

So much for the basics.

It’s the day to day opportunities that make life interesting for the chef.

How about pre-dinner pina coladas from coconuts traded with the locals and hand prepared by Charlie with his trusty bush knife, the implement of choice for all Ni – Vanuatu.

Or grilled lobster, minutes from the rocks and still very much alive.

Oh yes, it’s a tough life for a chef in Vanuatu.

Sashimi lovers

2006-05-31T22:41:00.000+10:00

Sashimi just seems to taste better when you catch it yourself, and these fine Yellowfin caught by brothers Bob and Michael Waldie on a double hookup proved no exception.

Carefully prepared on the deck by Captain Jared, the simplicity of the ingredients belies the exquisite taste and texture.

And when you add fine wine and a loving wife, it’s bliss…

Marlin Charlie

2006-05-30T22:29:00.000+10:00

Our second deckie in Vanuatu is Charlie Tui otherwise known in these parts as Marlin Charlie. Charlie is a Captain here in Vanuatu and achieved fame with his capture of the 1st grander Blue Marlin taken in these waters. Charlie was driving Shogun in Pango Bird in October 2000 when he hooked up to a 1,097lb fish. A 2hr fight saw the fish to the boat, but a fish this size was beyond the capabilities of Charlie’s deckie. Charlie took over as wireman and completed the capture. This fish is the current All-Tackle Record for Vanuatu and the biggest Blue Marlin ever taken in the South-West Pacific.

Charlie comes from Tahal Nesa village on Paama Island (Central Vanuatu). We pulled in to Charlie’s village and donated a soccer ball to the locals – receiving some beautiful sweet grapefruit and coconuts in return.

Shaka's run continues

2006-05-28T08:58:00.000+10:00

Our first day in Vanuatu began just as it had in Cairns last year. Two hours out of Port Vila on the Marlin Highway, we hooked up to a 400lb marlin. Angler David Merson had it to the boat in under 15 minutes and it was successfully tagged and released.

What a great start!

Safe and sound in Vila

2006-05-25T22:36:00.000+10:00

Shaka arrived in Port Vila on 24th May after a 5 day trip via Noumea. The crew were in fine shape but tired after a reasonable run.

Marina facilities at Vila are pretty basic – access poses a problem at low tide after a big night out!

Departure date

2006-05-17T18:16:00.000+10:00

Departure has been delayed by bad weather until Friday 19th. Anticipated arrival in Port Vila is Wednesday 24th.